64. Sushi Fish

In Omaha, Nebraska, a restaurant called Yoshi Tomo offers high-quality sushi, showcasing that even middle America can excel in this culinary art. Chef David Utterback ensures that a variety of fresh fish, including specialty options flown in from Japan, are part of the menu. Despite the challenges of quickly losing value in fresh seafood, modern logistics make it possible to enjoy exquisite sushi in Nebraska. Historically, sushi originated as a cheap street food in Japan, similar to a hot dog in the U.S., but it has since transformed into a gourmet dining experience. This evolution reflects both cultural shifts and the growing appreciation for sushi's unique flavors in American dining. Yoshi Tomo not only serves delicious sushi but also highlights the intricate journey of fish from ocean to plate and the efforts to bring this flavorful experience to local diners.

Sushi, once a simple Japanese food, transformed into a luxury cuisine as Japan's economy grew and foreign interest rose. The bluefin tuna, initially cheap and used in cat food, gained immense value over time and became highly sought after for its rich taste. This led to modern sushi bars opening globally, with bluefin tuna dubbed ‘the diamond of the sea.’ However, fishing for this prized fish requires skill and can be unpredictable, as fishermen face great risks and fluctuating catches due to strict quotas. Catching a bluefin can bring huge rewards, yet it often involves many days of unsuccessful fishing. Today, sushi is popular worldwide, often featuring sustainable but risky tuna sourcing from various locations. The way bluefin tuna is handled can significantly influence the quality of the sushi served, showcasing the blend of art and science in preparing this delicacy.

Experienced fishermen have a unique method for handling their catch. Instead of bringing the fish aboard immediately, they allow it to swim around the boat to reduce the lactic acid in its blood, ensuring better quality. After catching, the fish is killed, gutted, and packed on ice. The dealer uses a satellite phone to find the best market for the fish, weighing options between shipping it to Japan or selling it locally. Shipping to Japan is risky yet potentially rewarding, as a high-quality bluefin tuna can fetch tens of thousands of dollars at auction. The fish is transported carefully for auction in Tokyo, where wholesalers examine the fish and place bids. This complex journey emphasizes the balance between risk and reward in the seafood market, highlighting the high stakes involved in capturing and selling high-quality fish.

Sushi is a hugely popular and profitable business in the United States, generating around $27 billion a year with over 15,000 sushi restaurants. Companies like Yama Seafood, run by Nobu Yamanashi, are crucial to this market, supplying a variety of fish, including tuna and salmon, to many restaurants. Yama distributes thousands of pounds of fish weekly, sourcing from local dealers and international suppliers. Unlike standardized crops, the price and availability of fish can vary, making it challenging for distributors. They rely on long-term deals with brokers to secure their supply as they navigate the unpredictable nature of fish availability based on ocean catches. Overall, the sushi industry thrives not only on consumer demand but also on effective distribution networks like Yama Seafood that can quickly respond to that demand.

Buying wild fish, especially bluefin tuna, is like striking a deal where prices fluctuate based on quality, source, and market demand. A tuna’s price can vary dramatically, and top-quality grades (Grade 1) are highly sought after for sushi. However, assessing the true quality before cutting the fish is risky, as fish can sometimes be misclassified. Distributors often have to renegotiate the price with sellers once they inspect the fish, as quality does not always match the grade paid for. Prices can range from $8 to $300 per pound, heavily influenced by factors such as origin and appearance. Grade 2 and 3 tunas are still marketable but are less visually appealing. Ultimately, it’s a complex process that requires negotiating and flexibility due to the inherent risks attached to sourcing seafood.

When purchasing fish, especially bluefin tuna, the buying process is complex. After the fish is caught, it’s often damaged during handling, which can reduce its value. While whole fish might cost $20 per pound, when cut, different parts like Toro may sell for up to $40 per pound. Restaurants have specific requests, leading to variations in pricing and cuts. Ultimately, a single large tuna might be distributed among several restaurants, showcasing how market value varies based on the fish's condition and the specific cuts desired.

Bringing fish from the ocean to sushi restaurants is a complex process. Every day, a fleet of vans and trucks delivers fish around New York City, navigating tight spaces and heavy weights. While chefs bring in specialty fish from different countries, the most sold items at restaurants are often the standard sushi rolls. In cities like New York or Los Angeles, finding quality fish is easier, but chefs in places like Omaha, Nebraska, have fewer options and rely more on regional suppliers. Many sushi restaurants outside coastal areas get their fish from large suppliers like True World Foods, which focuses on economy over variety. As a result, sushi eaters across various cities might end up tasting similar fish, such as the same salmon or tuna, reflecting both the challenges and the supply chain dynamics in the sushi business.

In the sushi business, sourcing high-quality fish comes with significant challenges, especially in terms of cost. For example, premium fish like Ken Madai can range from $12 to $36 per pound, but if ordered from far-away places like Japan, shipping adds another $200 for a 100-pound box. In Omaha, a piece of high-end tuna that could sell for $89 in New York must be sold at a loss because local prices are much lower. Difficult choices arise because fish like the expensive Shibu dye snapper may demand a high price, but customers won't pay enough to cover costs. Sushi restaurants often balance their prices by offering a mix of dishes; special fish may be subsidized by less expensive items on the menu to maintain profitability, highlighting how complicated managing a sushi restaurant's finances can be.

Sushi rolls are like the cheeseburgers of sushi restaurants, making a lot of money despite their low cost of ingredients. Chefs often use cheaper ingredients for rolls, like imitation crab or lower-grade fish, and create popular combinations like spicy tuna. This helps manage leftovers effectively. The ability to source high-quality ingredients from around the world in a timely manner is remarkable compared to the difficulties faced by chefs centuries ago. Thanks to modern communication, a chef can easily order unique ingredients from Japan to serve in a restaurant located far away. In many senses, we have access to better food than kings of the past, making sushi not just a dish but a marvel of modern culinary practice.